As posted by Ingrid:
After 69 days on the road, here are some thoughts by two seniors travelling independently on a three month journey through Southeast Asia:
In Vietnam, they call us "beautiful". Not because we look gorgeous (although we do), but because we are of a certain age. And we make the best of it, as assistance is usually freely and gracefully offered. May it be schlepping our suitcases two or three floors up or helping us in and out of boats, buses and railroad cars. The people of Thailand are the most gentle and friendly, maybe because they have escaped many of the hardships and wars that the people of Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam have suffered during the 60s and 70s. Here in Vietnam the women are the most industrious while the menfolk take it more easy (I try to be nice here). We have seen very few older men (the war took its toll) but many older women who are so flexible we look at them with envy.
Although we have taken a few organized day tours here and there, we have made nearly all of our travel arrangements ourselves. Great thanks go here to my cousin Inge and her partner Albert, who have shown me how to do this effectively last spring and I am lucky to have remembered most of it. Flexibility is one great advantage of independent travel and we have adapted our original rough outline to suit our mood, our level of tiredness, the weather and the result of additional readings.
The Hotels:
There appear to be budget hotels in the $10 to $40 range or luxury hotels at $100 and up - way up in many locations - and not much in between. Backpackers "discovered" the region and are still the majority of visitors. For $40/night you can expect a clean room, air con, good hot water, a satellite TV, free wifi (sometimes even a computer in the room) and a breakfast included in the rate. Paying around $70 would give you not much more. We found that a mixture of lower end and high end works best for us. And then of course, there is Hongkong where anything under $160/night is considered budget. We will be paying $320/night there and believe me it will not be a five star abode.
All hotels we have encountered had hard mattresses in common. You could make a fortune selling pillow tops here. Pillows tend to be on the firm and on the high side, there were a number of nights where our travel blanket became our pillow for the night.
The Food:
With a few exceptions, the food has been wonderful. Spicy in Thailand and Southern Vietnam, less spicy as we are travelling again further north in Vietnam. Lush green herbs and fresh vegetables are part of every meal. Buffet breakfasts offer a choice of Asian and Western fare. Throughout Laos and Cambodia, where the French influence is strong, baguette and croissants were de rigeur. We tended to rely largely on Trip Advisor to find the best restaurants and were not disappointed. Overall, once we found a good spot and still felt fine the next morning, we tended to return. Milk was not largely available in Vietnam until 2003 - water buffaloes are used for ploughing and fieldwork - therefore cheese is something that we long for. " La vache qui rie" does not cut it in the long run.....
Lunch on average would cost $2-$4, dinner around $6-$8 per person. Wine is imported and therefore a glass would cost the same as a decent meal. Beer is around $1-$1.50 and we often mixed it with water, soda or Seven-up to quench our thirst after a hot day walking.
The Pollution:
Air pollution was a large factor for us in Northern Thailand, where clear burning from China tended to waft into the area. Dust pollution due to the dry weather and continuous road construction was incredible in Angkor Wat and southern Cambodia. Noise pollution in Vietnam is inescapable. In our Hotel in Hoi An, loudspeakers broadcast everything from propaganda to children's performances at full blast from 4:00 to 6:00pm. Factories will let off steam at 4:30 in the morning without regard for residential areas. Strange as it sounds, you get used to the din.
The Traffic:
In all the countries we visited, traffic is chaotic. There appear to be no rules and posted signs, even stop signs have no meaning. In Cambodia, turning left means that you turn to the left of the oncoming traffic and then make your way slowly across the oncoming traffic into the right lane. In Vietnam you blow your horn when approaching an intersection and then drive straight through. Traffic from the other other road does the same. We drove in buses that did not slow down when entering a village, leaning on the horn the whole way instead. In the countryside the road is viewed by the local residents as an extension of their house with the result that livestock is just as likely to graze by the roadside as in the fields and bicyclists turning into the main road will not look left before entering. So the horn is the main communication tool and is used liberally - some buses sound like fog horns..........but....... somehow it all works!
Staying Healthy:
Helen had two colds and I had a severe flu at the beginning of our trip and two colds since. Although the weather has been hot and dry, many people around us are coughing and sneezing. I always assumed that by now I would have been exposed to most of the cold viruses known to man, but they probably have a whole new batch over here. With so much to see and experience we are like Energizer bunnies most days, but it dragged us down at times. We are also taking malaria medication which is quite hard on the digestive system.
While Canada and Europe have never ending winter, this region has seen temperatures above normal. As we approached Hanoi it turned cloudy with occasional showers. After 67 sunny days and 35C+ temperature it felt positively refreshing.
Money:
Whereas the Thai baht was quite manageable and Cambodia could easily be transversed with U.S. dollars (the only currency dispensed by local ATMs), the Vietnamese dong is a different story. 1$ approximates 20,000 dong and the country has bills only, no coins. This has the fortunate result that you are afraid to spend too much. 100,000 dong feels like a fortune, but it is only $5. Or so we have to remind ourselves......
Most bank machines only spit out a maximum of 2,000,000 dong, re-enforcing our aversion. Quite a pain however when it is time to settle hotel bills, which require regular planned bank visits. Small towns seldom have ATMs.
In case you are wondering, overall, and without any hardship, we are running about 10% below our vacation budget so far (no, I am not telling you how much that is), but we expect to pay more for the Hong Kong portion down the road. So far, so good.
Trains, Planes, Buses and Taxis:
Contrary to my expectations (Helen is more optimistic here), we have not been scammed as yet. Every time we walk into a hole-in-the-wall travel agency and buy a ticket, I expect it to be either fake or no bus to show up. But, surprise, surprise everything has worked out so far.
We have seen buses that were super modern and new (Ibis), buses that were run down and dirty, and buses that were old or looked like great-great-grandma's living room. Trains that were sleek (in Thailand) and those that stank of fish sauce (from Phan Tiet, the world capital of fish sauce, to Saigon). We shared the sleeper train coach to Hanoi with two lads, one of them had a terrible cold and no Kleenex. That is what we call a truly local experience!
Only once, in Hue, did a taxi driver try to scam us. And a Mai Linh taxi at that. Picking us up from the bus station to the hotel, he refused to put the meter on. We agreed on a 15,000 dong fare. I asked "1,5 right?" and he said yes. When we disembarked, he insisted on 50,000 dong. I took note of his name and car number (thank you, Albert for teaching me this), and he backed off immediately.
Going On-line:
Apart from our stay at the ecolodge in Kep, Cambodia, we always had wifi access either in our hotel room or the hotel lobby. Not necessarily strong enough to skype but often strong enough to receive e-mail, at least for part of the day. I have been working with a Kindle Fire and Helen has her trusted ipad, if one does not have reception, the other usually does (probably due to the different operating systems). Blogging however has required a stand-alone computer in order to connect our cameras and download pictures. And we usually found them in hotel lobbies or on few occasions, Internet cafes.
In many ways, Southeast Asia is more on-line than North America. Communication towers are everywhere, even in the deepest country side. Even on long bus rides, passengers as well as the driver are on the phone constantly and I get the urge to say "Keep your hands on the wheel!!".
Shopping:
Not a day goes by that we do not see something unique or beautiful that tempts us to a purchase. But then we remind each other that it would require carrying that item for the rest of the trip in a suitcase that is already way to bulky and heavy. And then normally relief sets in. What a great excuse not having to buy anything!
Travelling Together:
After more than two months on the road, are we still friends? You bet we are. Oh yes, we drive each other crazy sometimes, but that is to be expected from two crows who are used to living alone. And it is wonderful to be able to share the unique experiences that we are making every day and to be able to support each other when things get a little bit rough.
We are so fortunate to be healthy and wealthy enough to do this, and I am truly grateful.
P.S.: Caroline, as you can see I am keeping my promise, are you keeping yours?
After 69 days on the road, here are some thoughts by two seniors travelling independently on a three month journey through Southeast Asia:
In Vietnam, they call us "beautiful". Not because we look gorgeous (although we do), but because we are of a certain age. And we make the best of it, as assistance is usually freely and gracefully offered. May it be schlepping our suitcases two or three floors up or helping us in and out of boats, buses and railroad cars. The people of Thailand are the most gentle and friendly, maybe because they have escaped many of the hardships and wars that the people of Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam have suffered during the 60s and 70s. Here in Vietnam the women are the most industrious while the menfolk take it more easy (I try to be nice here). We have seen very few older men (the war took its toll) but many older women who are so flexible we look at them with envy.
Although we have taken a few organized day tours here and there, we have made nearly all of our travel arrangements ourselves. Great thanks go here to my cousin Inge and her partner Albert, who have shown me how to do this effectively last spring and I am lucky to have remembered most of it. Flexibility is one great advantage of independent travel and we have adapted our original rough outline to suit our mood, our level of tiredness, the weather and the result of additional readings.
The Hotels:
There appear to be budget hotels in the $10 to $40 range or luxury hotels at $100 and up - way up in many locations - and not much in between. Backpackers "discovered" the region and are still the majority of visitors. For $40/night you can expect a clean room, air con, good hot water, a satellite TV, free wifi (sometimes even a computer in the room) and a breakfast included in the rate. Paying around $70 would give you not much more. We found that a mixture of lower end and high end works best for us. And then of course, there is Hongkong where anything under $160/night is considered budget. We will be paying $320/night there and believe me it will not be a five star abode.
All hotels we have encountered had hard mattresses in common. You could make a fortune selling pillow tops here. Pillows tend to be on the firm and on the high side, there were a number of nights where our travel blanket became our pillow for the night.
The Food:
With a few exceptions, the food has been wonderful. Spicy in Thailand and Southern Vietnam, less spicy as we are travelling again further north in Vietnam. Lush green herbs and fresh vegetables are part of every meal. Buffet breakfasts offer a choice of Asian and Western fare. Throughout Laos and Cambodia, where the French influence is strong, baguette and croissants were de rigeur. We tended to rely largely on Trip Advisor to find the best restaurants and were not disappointed. Overall, once we found a good spot and still felt fine the next morning, we tended to return. Milk was not largely available in Vietnam until 2003 - water buffaloes are used for ploughing and fieldwork - therefore cheese is something that we long for. " La vache qui rie" does not cut it in the long run.....
Lunch on average would cost $2-$4, dinner around $6-$8 per person. Wine is imported and therefore a glass would cost the same as a decent meal. Beer is around $1-$1.50 and we often mixed it with water, soda or Seven-up to quench our thirst after a hot day walking.
The Pollution:
Air pollution was a large factor for us in Northern Thailand, where clear burning from China tended to waft into the area. Dust pollution due to the dry weather and continuous road construction was incredible in Angkor Wat and southern Cambodia. Noise pollution in Vietnam is inescapable. In our Hotel in Hoi An, loudspeakers broadcast everything from propaganda to children's performances at full blast from 4:00 to 6:00pm. Factories will let off steam at 4:30 in the morning without regard for residential areas. Strange as it sounds, you get used to the din.
The Traffic:
In all the countries we visited, traffic is chaotic. There appear to be no rules and posted signs, even stop signs have no meaning. In Cambodia, turning left means that you turn to the left of the oncoming traffic and then make your way slowly across the oncoming traffic into the right lane. In Vietnam you blow your horn when approaching an intersection and then drive straight through. Traffic from the other other road does the same. We drove in buses that did not slow down when entering a village, leaning on the horn the whole way instead. In the countryside the road is viewed by the local residents as an extension of their house with the result that livestock is just as likely to graze by the roadside as in the fields and bicyclists turning into the main road will not look left before entering. So the horn is the main communication tool and is used liberally - some buses sound like fog horns..........but....... somehow it all works!
Staying Healthy:
Helen had two colds and I had a severe flu at the beginning of our trip and two colds since. Although the weather has been hot and dry, many people around us are coughing and sneezing. I always assumed that by now I would have been exposed to most of the cold viruses known to man, but they probably have a whole new batch over here. With so much to see and experience we are like Energizer bunnies most days, but it dragged us down at times. We are also taking malaria medication which is quite hard on the digestive system.
While Canada and Europe have never ending winter, this region has seen temperatures above normal. As we approached Hanoi it turned cloudy with occasional showers. After 67 sunny days and 35C+ temperature it felt positively refreshing.
Money:
Whereas the Thai baht was quite manageable and Cambodia could easily be transversed with U.S. dollars (the only currency dispensed by local ATMs), the Vietnamese dong is a different story. 1$ approximates 20,000 dong and the country has bills only, no coins. This has the fortunate result that you are afraid to spend too much. 100,000 dong feels like a fortune, but it is only $5. Or so we have to remind ourselves......
Most bank machines only spit out a maximum of 2,000,000 dong, re-enforcing our aversion. Quite a pain however when it is time to settle hotel bills, which require regular planned bank visits. Small towns seldom have ATMs.
In case you are wondering, overall, and without any hardship, we are running about 10% below our vacation budget so far (no, I am not telling you how much that is), but we expect to pay more for the Hong Kong portion down the road. So far, so good.
Trains, Planes, Buses and Taxis:
Contrary to my expectations (Helen is more optimistic here), we have not been scammed as yet. Every time we walk into a hole-in-the-wall travel agency and buy a ticket, I expect it to be either fake or no bus to show up. But, surprise, surprise everything has worked out so far.
We have seen buses that were super modern and new (Ibis), buses that were run down and dirty, and buses that were old or looked like great-great-grandma's living room. Trains that were sleek (in Thailand) and those that stank of fish sauce (from Phan Tiet, the world capital of fish sauce, to Saigon). We shared the sleeper train coach to Hanoi with two lads, one of them had a terrible cold and no Kleenex. That is what we call a truly local experience!
Only once, in Hue, did a taxi driver try to scam us. And a Mai Linh taxi at that. Picking us up from the bus station to the hotel, he refused to put the meter on. We agreed on a 15,000 dong fare. I asked "1,5 right?" and he said yes. When we disembarked, he insisted on 50,000 dong. I took note of his name and car number (thank you, Albert for teaching me this), and he backed off immediately.
Going On-line:
Apart from our stay at the ecolodge in Kep, Cambodia, we always had wifi access either in our hotel room or the hotel lobby. Not necessarily strong enough to skype but often strong enough to receive e-mail, at least for part of the day. I have been working with a Kindle Fire and Helen has her trusted ipad, if one does not have reception, the other usually does (probably due to the different operating systems). Blogging however has required a stand-alone computer in order to connect our cameras and download pictures. And we usually found them in hotel lobbies or on few occasions, Internet cafes.
In many ways, Southeast Asia is more on-line than North America. Communication towers are everywhere, even in the deepest country side. Even on long bus rides, passengers as well as the driver are on the phone constantly and I get the urge to say "Keep your hands on the wheel!!".
Shopping:
Not a day goes by that we do not see something unique or beautiful that tempts us to a purchase. But then we remind each other that it would require carrying that item for the rest of the trip in a suitcase that is already way to bulky and heavy. And then normally relief sets in. What a great excuse not having to buy anything!
Travelling Together:
After more than two months on the road, are we still friends? You bet we are. Oh yes, we drive each other crazy sometimes, but that is to be expected from two crows who are used to living alone. And it is wonderful to be able to share the unique experiences that we are making every day and to be able to support each other when things get a little bit rough.
We are so fortunate to be healthy and wealthy enough to do this, and I am truly grateful.
P.S.: Caroline, as you can see I am keeping my promise, are you keeping yours?
