Quaint Hoi An

Quaint and atmospheric Hoi An, is a city of 120,000 inhabitants in South Central Vietnam on the South China Sea. Largely untouched by the American War, it is a well preserved example of a 15th to 19th century trading post. It's buildings reflect its history which was strongly influenced by migrations from both China and  Japan. The much photographed "Japanese Bridge" spanned the two communities and the structure has two shrines at each end depicting monkeys and dogs, representing the years in which construction was said to have started and finished.

Hoi An only had 2,000 inhabitants in 1980, the tremendous growth since then is mainly due to tourism, the resilience of it's people and its famous cuisine which reflect both the influences from the South and North of the country. Given that food rationing did not end until 1990 and milk was only imported in 2003, the culinary ascent is even more astonishing.

Other than the architecturally stunning buildings - with the roofs being the most impressive - the town is home to hundreds of tailors and it is the rare tourist that does not walk away with a suitcase full of new clothes (we are one of the rare ones). Old town consists of tailor or handicraft artisan shops, interspersed with restaurants specializing in fresh ingredients and food that tastes terrific. And since we have been here now for five nights, we tried many of them - all great.   (A comment from Helen:  Before our trip started, Ingrid told me to be prepared to lose a good 10 pounds - on the contrary I thing we are on our way to gaining 10 pounds!)

Old Town is a picture postcard town which my camera does not do justice - pale yellow buildings draped with flowering vines, Vietnamese women with their conical hats, and tailor shops staffed with women in traditional Vietnamese dress. 

After we thought we knew the Old Town by heart we took a taxi to the beach, all of 4km away. Around 3-5km long, the north end is still wonderfully wild, nary a beach hut in site. Luckily the sky was cloudy which kept us from further sun exposure - we are already darker than the Vietnamese - and enhanced the feeling of being one with the elements. Suddenly, out of the dunes came a procession of elderly Chinese gentlemen carrying what looked like an altar supported by bamboo sticks. In procession, they marched along the water, stopping now and then to light incence and distribute monopoly money. It felt eerie.

On Saturday we took a cooking course with the top local restaurant.  A good cook must work with the best ingrdients (no?), so before the class started we visited the local market where we stopped by the noodle stall, the building where the fishermen sold their catch (the noisiest area), then the areas where meat, spices, vegetables and fruits are sold.  There are many fruits/veggies we don't have - it certainly was a learning experience. And then we got to cook: Soup with minced shrimp and cabbage,
fried rice pancakes with pork and shrimp, barbequed lime chicken and green mango salad. And the best part - we got to eat it all!!

And in the evening the Old Town turns magical as silk lanterns cast their colorful glow and street food is served along the riverfront by candlelight.

 

 

 

 

And we are off to Hue, the imperial city on the Perfume river, four hours north from here.....